The biggest difference is the reduction in grain and increase in sharpness. After using blix for the last two years, I’m dumbfounded. “I used up developer from a tetenal kit I had on the go, so the biggest difference was using separate bleach and fix. ![]() The following discussion that another forum member started was very interesting to me: ” However, I can say that use of a blix instead of a real bleach then fix cycle is the root of many problems.” (Comment #356 at ) He has made a lot of statements on this subject on this site, including such gems as this: This particular employee goes by the moniker “PE” on the popular site APUG (Analog Photography Users’ Group), which has recently been acquired by Photorio. If you have ever felt that way, then you’ll know how I felt when I first came across comparison statements made by a former Kodak-Eastman employee on the difference in C-41 with blix versus separate bleach/fix. I feel that I can now confidently develop any C-41 film with these chemicals because of the math, which was the lesson I needed to learn.Have you ever read something before and been left with a nagging feeling that what you read discounted what you knew and made you feel like you weren’t doing as good as you could? And then did you spend months trying to rationalize that what you were doing was just fine and didn’t need to be improved? It took me a little bit of time to really dial in the science of developing film at home, and after making this table, I feel like I am definitely working on a better level than when I started. It’s a good price and I get pretty satisfying results consistently. I experimented with different powdered chemicals for a little while before I settled on the liquid C-41 kit that Cinestill offers. I tossed a lamp with some red lighting gel in my bathroom and bada bing bada boom I had a darkroom. I bought a black film changing bag, a double-spool Paterson developing tank, some chemical storage bottles, and a box of fresh powdered chemicals. Since I’ve always been an industrious DIY tinkerer-type person, I went with the latter. What I came to find out was that it was going to cost me something like $150+ to send my film to some darkroom for processing, or I could spend that same amount of money and buy the bare minimum amount of equipment to do it at home myself. I stacked up something like 15 rolls of film that had not been processed, so I started looking up places to get it done. ![]() When I got into shooting film back in 2013, I just kept shooting and shooting and shooting but never got the film processed. People ask me why I develop my own color negative film. I wasn’t taking notes and generally just shooting from the hip. ![]() This resulted in some minor color and exposure issues that were somewhat manageable in Photoshop but generally yields decent results.Īt this phase of my understanding in extended chemistry times, I was still just doing math on my phone and incorrectly calculating the times. Moving to the four samples below, all the films I developed using roundabout timings that were pretty close but not precise. Me Laughing from the first roll I ever developed back in 2018 There’s still an image (of me) but it’s not pleasing whatsoever. I severely screwed up the development and blix timings and did not monitor the developer temperature. Results time! Here’s the first roll I ever developed back in 2018. Here’s the table, scroll past it to see the results I’ve obtained. ![]() I would like to test these numbers a bit further, just to see if any tweaks need to be made, but the last roll that I developed using an exact time yielded positive results (my 8th roll of film developed with the chemicals and it was push processed 1 stop). I made a chart to help me out while using CineStill’s C-41 Quart Kiand I no longer have to second guess my work. Cinestill C-41 Quart Kit: extended development, push and pull processing times - EMULSIVE Close Search for:
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